New Rock Guard for Sports and Hypers

[Glenn]

Here is the heavy duty rock guard customers have been asking for.

It is 1/4" stainless steel. We anticipated building this rock guard, so your sport models have holes predrilled in the skeg for this rock guard. Just drill out larger to 3/8".

$35 plus shippng (member price is $28)
Hardware included

801.352.8011
or email for paypal transfer request glenn@mudbuddy.com

[Can Killer]

Glenn,

How does the straightness of the rock guard affect steering? Does it cause more tiller pressure or is the skeg offset enough to compensate?

[RC]

on mine, the 1" guard, it did affect steering when straight (not too bad) but i just bent it until it had no affect (pretty close to the same angle as the stock bent skeg)

[Rick]

One thing to remember when bending the rock guard "with" the factory bent skeg is that you are more likely tobend the "straight" part of the skeg if you hit something hard enough due to the location of the rock guard bolts which are located on the stright part of the skeg. HAd this happen to a friend. While pounding it back straight with a hard mallet got it inline again, the integrity of the metal weakens everytime you have to do that, thus your skeg becomes more prone to bending with hard impacts even without a rock guard. Soooooooooo, I suggest running the rock guard straight. While it may produce a smidge of tiller torque, it wasn't enough to really ever notice most of the time. I'd rather have to straighten my rock guard out if it bent to either side, than my skeg. Just my observation and opinion..............

[Can Killer]

Thanks for the info Rick. Have you done an testing to determine if further offsetting of the motor will reduce handle torque or vibration? I am interested in mounting a rock guard and already have my motor offset about 15/16 inch from center. Should I consider moving it over farther or is it okay where it is? When running straight it is smooth as can be with the offset. The vibration is another thing... Hands aren't as young as they used to be...I blame them, not the motor.

[Rick]

Originally Posted by Can Killer

Thanks for the info Rick. Have you done an testing to determine if further offsetting of the motor will reduce handle torque or vibration? I am interested in mounting a rock guard and already have my motor offset about 15/16 inch from center. Should I consider moving it over farther or is it okay where it is? When running straight it is smooth as can be with the offset. The vibration is another thing... Hands aren't as young as they used to be...I blame them, not the motor.

You're offset is fine for running a rock guard. Mine is offset 5/8".

[elk_riverrat]

Will it fit my 12hp Hyper Longtail?

[lipsmaker72901]

Is it OK to run the rock gausrd in the mud? What are the pros and cons of it. Doesnt look too hard to put on or off.

[lipsmaker72901]

We tried to put the guard on my motor today. and found that the predrilled holes on the guard and the skeg did not matchup at all. We measured and tried to figure out how it should go, then finally came to the forum to look at the picture. I must have a differnt drive cause the shaft on the one in the picture is much shorter than mine.

Any Ideas?

[sandman7655]

you probably have a bal hyper and not the sport.

[Rick]

or a tall transom model and not a short tranny one

[lipsmaker72901]

Here is a pic of my motor.

[Rick]

you have a tall tranny balanced HYper. Shouldn't matter as far as a rock guard goes--the skeg is the same height with the same factory bend as a short tranny one. Forget the predrilled holes in the rock guard. Try to use the holes predrilled in the skeg and alter your rock guard. However, I did have to drill a completely new hole for the top bolt. If anything use the bottom pre-drilled hole on the skeg, then drill out another hole if you have to to get the angle right of the guard. Best advice I can tell any of y'all is to go get some flat stock without pre-drilled holes. That way you can custom build your guard to the angle/length you prefer.

[lipsmaker72901]

Any pointers on the length/angle?

[Rick]

I found the best angle to where the top of the rock guard is about 2 inches under the prop. Total lenght of my guards are 15". Trailing end stops about where the edges of the prop are

[weathers1200]

My advice on tiller torque is leave the rock guard straight and increase the bend in the skeg trim tab slightly until you get it where you want it.

[HaydenHunter]

I am running the new rock guard on a Sport Hyper 35/42 on a Hunt Deck Gatortrax. Have made two runs up and down a rocky creek over a total of probably 40 miles. The rock guard works great and I have experienced no tiller torque whatsoever. I did notice that the rock guard is bent toward the skeg...probably about half way between it's original straight position and the angle the skeg is bent at. Must have been one of those times I nailed a rock. Prop looks great. I have never run a rock guard before but now I am a true believer.

[BarGen]

I am running a 35 Sport and Clint just put on a 1/4" x 1" peice of stanless steel and it works gareat. However I did drill a third hole in between the stock two, and added another bolt. I figured if a reall smacked something and sheared of either bolt, the guard could possibly pivot and get up into the prop. That would be ugly. It just depends on how far out you extend the guard though. Be carful

[weathers1200]

Originally Posted by Barry Genta

I am running a 35 Sport and Clint just put on a 1/4" x 1" peice of stanless steel and it works gareat. However I did drill a third hole in between the stock two, and added another bolt. I figured if a reall smacked something and sheared of either bolt, the guard could possibly pivot and get up into the prop. That would be ugly. It just depends on how far out you extend the guard though. Be carful

You would have to hit something really hard to mess up a rock guard! I have one, but for almost two years ran without it. No rocks but several trees, stumps, etc. and the stock balanced Hyper just ran right over the stuff!

[Rick]

Originally Posted by weathers1200

You would have to hit something really hard to mess up a rock guard! I have one, but for almost two years ran without it. No rocks but several trees, stumps, etc. and the stock balanced Hyper just ran right over the stuff!

I run double rock guards when I run the rivers. And even with 2 stacked I have bent both!!!! The speeds that a 45 runs causes much harder impacts with rocks/boulders. I wouldn't make a it a mile with just one.

The guards aren't needed for stumps but if you run heavily rocked areas, it is HIGHLY advised you do so. Your outdrive and prop will thank you.

[wal1809]

I was reading over the threads and replies to the rock gaurds. I can usually figure things out on my own but Probably need some "I been there done that info". My question on the rock gaurd is why would you need one of the skeg sticks down below the prop anyway? I can understand the bigger better theory but probably need a coaxing on this one. Thank you in advance.

[weathers1200]

Originally Posted by wal1809

I was reading over the threads and replies to the rock gaurds. I can usually figure things out on my own but Probably need some "I been there done that info". My question on the rock gaurd is why would you need one of the skeg sticks down below the prop anyway? I can understand the bigger better theory but probably need a coaxing on this one. Thank you in advance.

You are correct but if you look at the photo there is nothing directly under the prop. When the skeg slides over an obstacle the prop can come down on the obstacle possibly causing damage. The prop guard is much thicker than the factory skeg and when properly mounted extends aft of the skeg to protect the tips of the prop. I have one an it is money well spent if you run through rocks, logs and alligators.

[BoatDR]

Yea, dem alligators are pretty tough!!!!

[wal1809]

I xan see that now my next question, does it stop the motor from running any shallower? I am sure it will be alright in really soft mud but how about running through the hard stuff?

[Rick]

In rocks/gravel shoals, yes, the guard will ride up on top of them and raise your prop up as well. But, better the guards are dragging and banging the rocks than your prop.

[Idahofowlweather]

Originally Posted by Barry Genta

I am running a 35 Sport and Clint just put on a 1/4" x 1" peice of stanless steel and it works gareat. However I did drill a third hole in between the stock two, and added another bolt. I figured if a reall smacked something and sheared of either bolt, the guard could possibly pivot and get up into the prop. That would be ugly. It just depends on how far out you extend the guard though. Be carful

add a 3rd bolt and use grade 8... the grade 5 will not last...!

[Rick]

What size bolts did you use??? If 1/4" that's too small. You have to drill out the factory holes to 3/8" and use grade 5 or 8 bolts. Been running a rock guard on mine for a couple of years and have taken some serious rock wallops. Guard bends out a bit , but I just re-straighten it and re-install.

[Cajun_in_GA]

idaho, did u use the bolts sent to u by md or did u buy your own?

[Idahofowlweather]

the stock bolt from Mud Buddy... looks like I'm not the olny one that has had a problem as I was told on the phone... 2 guys on the fuge have had the same problem and one from this site...

Rick don't you use 2 rock gaurds to?

Jake

[Cajun_in_GA]

id be welding that puppy on or do like us married folks and go without!!