23 Mini- top pulley removal

[willydiver]

For reasons I'll explain in another thread, I've got to remove the outdrive/belt housing from my 23 Mini. In order to do this, I've got to get the top pulley off the motor shaft. Am I correct that there is a taper lock holding the pulley onto the shaft? I've got the two allen set screws out of the taper lock. I tried pushing the taper lock out by turning one of the allen screws into the third hole that is opposite of the split in the taper lock. Did this to no avail. I put substantial force on it but didn't want to over do it and damage the aluminum pulley. There is some light rust on the engine shaft from water that had gotten into the housing. But I didn't figure it was enough to keep the taper lock from withdrawing. I've got it soaking with pen. oil. I'll try tapping the pulley towards the motor with a wood block to try and jar it loose. Any other suggestions on how to get this thing off? My closest dealer is 3.5 hours away.
Thanks!
WD

[Gun Doc]

I suggest having some pressure on that "removal" screw while you are tapping.

[willydiver]

Great, so I wasn't too far off with my thinking. I should tap the pulley back towards the motor, correct?

Also, will everything line up intuitively upon reassembly? Or will I need to do something special to make sure the top pulley lines up with the bottom prop shaft pulley? Just follow the witness/rust marks to lines things back up?

Thanks!
WD

[sandman7655]

you have got to put one screw back in the hole that is in the middle of the two you took out and tighten it ,this will break the taper lock loose.

[willydiver]

Thanks guys. Now that I know for sure this is how I'm supposed to remove it, I can put a little more "heat" on it to persuade it to come off.

Thanks!
WD

[willydiver]

Alright, I'm getting back to reassembling my belt housing and gears. Is 55# the correct torque for the allen screws in the gear/taper lock assembly (upper and lower)?

Also, behind the lower gear there is a tapered spacer looking component that looks to be held in place by a snap ring and seal and press fit onto the prop shaft. What is that thing? It's got some ugly rust growing on it and wondered if I need to pull it and clean it or replace it. How does this thing come off? The prop shaft itself appears to be stainless, so I'm not worried about it. The rust came from water sitting in the belt housing from a tiny leak I found recently. Will this thing wear out a seal by being rusty and rough? I may be over-reacting as I nut up when I see RUST...

Thanks!

Oh ya, so is 55# the correct torque?

[Gun Doc]

I don't know the correct torque, but I am 99.9999% sure you cannot put 55 ft. lb. on those little allen screws. The 55 ft. lb. you remember is for the single big (like 1/2 +/-) fine thread steel on steel connection that holds the clutch on the units with electric clutches. 55 ft. lb. on those little allens will pop something for sure.

I'd check with BoatDR if I were you.

[willydiver]

Could someone post the correct torque specs. for all of the bolts one might encounter while changing pulleys, changing belts, etc. In particular all the bolts into the belt housing and especially the engine mount bolts into the back of the B&S motor. That aluminum is REAL particular on how many FT-#'s it likes!!!

I had a blast disassembling and reassembling my outdrive but really want to know the proper torques for the next time. I pretty much torqued all of the bolts into the belt housing to 25 ft-#'s (since they had pressed in nuts) and the four engine bolts into the back of the B&S motor to 15 ft-#'s. Felt like I was pushing the limits at that.

Please post some numbers if you can.

Thanks!
WD
23 Mini Hyper