04 Hyper Prop Sleeve Upgrade:
The sleeve is located between the prop and the lower bearing
assembly. Inspect the sleeve for cracks. If you have
replaced a cracked sleeve in the past, or see damage on your current
prop sleeve, call us for an free upgrade, regular UPS. (The original
sleeve may have been out of spec and hardened more than required.
When you strike an object with the prop, it can split causing seal
and bearing collar damage.)
After 1 year or 50 hours we would like you to grease the lower
drive. Remove the grease hole plug, located on the side of the
casting near the drive tube. Insert a 1/4" X 28 pitch thread
grease fitting. Lube 8 to 10 pumps (no more) of marine grade
grease (available at parts store, commonly called marine trailer
axle grease). Replace the cap head screw, do not over tighten.
Warning: Don't over-grease the drive, in that the drive is
sealed and the pressure will cause seal damage and drive failure.
Check again at 200 hours or two years.
Universal Joint Inspection:
If you hear vibration coming from the
universal area of the drive, first check your propeller for wear.
Vibration will transmit up the drive shaft and terminate at the
universal. Also check for a bent prop blade or drive shaft.
Also, check the two universal set screws and key to ensure they are
tight and in good condition. More recent models have the drive
shaft welded to the universal joint. You can do likewise by
welding a 3/8" bead where the universal meets the drive shaft.
(Not the engine crankshaft) This prevents the drive shaft from
loosening and wearing out prematurely. The weld is easily
ground off if the shaft or universal needs repair.
Engine Bolt Tighten: We have
had a few reports of engine bolts being under-tightened. Take
a couple minutes and retighten the engine mounting bolts. If
you check your belt tension, also check the four engine face bolts
located behind the clutch, and the four casting slide bolts located
under the engine mount (bolt into main belt casting). If the bolts
are removed, add 243 (blue) Loctite to each bolt.
Engine Oil: Use 10W-30
synthetic, but not required. Also, check the engine oil with
engine level. Do not overfill. This can cause oil to
enter the fuel pump pulse line and cause high speed fuel delivery
water-removing fuel additive when the weather turns cold. When
dark, shine a flashlight into the fuel tank and any water drops will
show up like small diamonds in the bottom of your fuel tank.
If so, use the fuel additive. One drop of water in the tank
will shut you down...
Electric Clutch Fuse:
HD Sports released in June were fitted with an 8 amp fuse. Carry an
extra in your tool box. The yellow fuse-holder is located
under the plastic side cover on the large block Vanguard motors.
Later models have a square circuit breaker that automatically
Large Block Vanguard Cold Weather Operation Tip:
The large block
Vanguard can have icing problems when temperatures drop below 20
degrees. If you have a flat panel air cleaner model Vanguard,
you can rotate the cover intake nozzle around to the muffler side
and draw warm air from the top of the muffler. This will
prevent carb icing. When warmer weather returns, rotate the
intake to the side where it can draw cool air.
See cold weather operation tips.
Tip: It is
very important for you to take a few minutes and check your belt
tension. It is a simple process. See your owner's
manual. We have a belt tension kit available for $19.
Call 801.352.8011 to order.
and HD Sport Belt Tension and
Honda Spark Plug Update: Dec 2004 -
Honda has advised us that performance can be increased by using a
certain brand of aftermarket spark plugs. When conducting
normal service, check your plugs for excessive carbon. If so,
replace with NGK BPR2ES plugs which run a little hotter.
(Van and Kohler): Dec 2004
- If you run on rivers or lakes when the temperature is below 20
degrees you may experience carb icing. Symptoms include black
smoke, fuel use increase and considerable power loss. We have
kits for both the Kohler and large block Vanguards which draw warm
air from the muffler shell into the carburator.
and Parts Shipment Policy:
We will gladly assist you in getting replacement
parts. It is not necessary to travel to a dealer to order a
warranty part or have someone verify the breakage, etc. You
can call MB direct for home shipment of parts. In some cases,
we will get a credit card from customers to ensure return of broken
parts that must go back to the manufacture in order for them to
warranty the part. Shipment is limited to regular UPS ground.
Overnight, two day and three-day select are customer options which
are paid for by the customer.
If you need to contact a local engine repair facility
click here for a convenient locator.
Outdrive Drain Screw: Check your outdrive moisture drain
screw (located on lower end of outdrive casting) annually. If
you detect any moisture in the drive, bolts located on the lower end
of the outdrive may have vibrated loose and are allowing water to
enter the drive. Take a few minutes and seal the rear outdrive
mounting bolt threads and transom saver bar bolt threads with
Permatex or another type of thread sealer. The mounting bolts
are located above the transom saver main casting mount.
Remove only one bolt at a time, seal and replace. Tighten
snuggly. Call if you need assistance. 801.352.8011 or
Remove the screw
located on the bottom of the
casting to check for moisture in the drive. The
transom saver bolts shown here on the bottom
rear of the casting and four large bolts above the
transom saver can be taken out one at a time
and resealed. Do not remove more than one
of the 9/16" bolts at a time. These bolts maintain
drive belt tension.
Muffler Bolts: Take a few minutes and check your muffler bolts.
We have had reports of the Vanguard lower two muffler bolts coming
loose. Add a lockwasher to the bolt or loctite them in place.
Check often. If you have lost a muffler bolt they are
8mm X 1.25 X 20mm long on the lower two bolts and the four flange
bolts are 8 X 1.25 X 25mm.
Rock/Sand Shoe Suggestion:
September 2004 - Provides better prop protection when running
in rocky rivers and lakes. Install a 1" X 1/4" X 12"
flat bar. Mount with two 1/4" stainless bolts.
Rock bar kits are available for $18 plus shipping.
Note, we have a new rock shoe that is 1/4" stainless thick and 2"
wide. Great protection from rocks. Call 801.352.8011 for
details and pricing.
Or, order this new part.
Squeeze Grip Position Adjustment: If you
travel long distances or drive with winter gloves, it is easier to
maintain throttle by loosening the set screw and rotate the squeeze
grip 45 degrees downward.
Throttle Adjustment Tips:
Put an elastic band or wire tie around the throttle
lever so that it is locked against the grip. Loosen the
throttle adjustment clamp at the end of the cable and gently pull
the throttle cable out until the throttle lever, near the end of the
throttle wire, hits the stop screw or is as far as it can go.
Do not pull to hard. Tighten the throttle cable clamp down
firmly. Start the engine and you may now have to adjust the
idle. The idle set screw is always located on the side of the
carburetor. Track down the linkage and you will find it on the
carb. Adjust as needed.
(Never, and I mean never, adjust the
governor high speed stop or tabs without checking with us or an
authorized service center. The engine should not exceed 3850
rpm out of the water. 4000 rpm for 29-35 Vans)
If you want to keep your mud motor
in top condition, follow these simple storage instructions.
Storage means over 60 days. Add fuel stabilizer to the tank
(available at any auto parts store), run the engine for at least 4
minutes, then disconnect the fuel line and run the engine out of
RPM/Governor Adjust Tips:
The most common PM questions I get concern RPM, props
and throttle adjustment.
The question really is, can I make my mud motor go
Chances are, you probably can. I haven't seen one yet
that we can't make go faster for under $200 and many
times do it for nothing. Self help is best.
Longtails with lever style throttle.
Set the friction adjustment screw to hold your throttle
wide open. Have someone hold it open, if necessary.
Loosen the throttle cable clamp located by the muffler.
Pull gently until the throttle lever hits its stop. In
many models this is a high speed governor adjustment
screw or fixed bracket. Tighten the cable clamp snug. Do
not over tighten.
Start the engine, let idle for one minute and then run
wide open. Check tach for 3850 to 4000 rpm depending on
the manufacture engine spec requirements. Most can be
run at 3900.
If the engine does not run at least that high, you will
need to adjust the governor. Now this gets tricky and
why many manufacturers prefer not to give any more
As long as you do not run more than 4000 rpm out of the
water, the only way you can screw up a governor is by
not tightening the adjustment screw causing it to loosen
and over-rev later.
Here goes. The governor is connected directly to the
butterfly lever on the carburetor. The throttle you use
is connected to the governor by a governor spring. The
governor isn't magic and doesn't control your life,
however, without adequate pull by the throttle through
the spring, its objective, to slow down the engine can
limit your max RPMs.
So, we want to exert more pull than the governor, thus
controlling top speed RPM out of the water. I will talk
about how that relates to the in-water, under-load speed
The governor either has an adjustment screw or a tab.
The adjustment screw obviously moves the stop allowing
the throttle to pull further on the spring, or a tab
that does likewise. Many Vans have a tab, Kohler and
Kawi, have a screw. So adjust the screw or tab to pull
further or harder on the governor spring. Each time,
incrementally. Check the RPM, each time doing so more
carefully to ensure you don't over adjust and cause
over-revving problems. If this doesn't work, there is
The Governor Spring: The governor spring on your mud
motor is designed to exert a set amount of pull on the
governor. Most springs are color coded reflecting what
RPM they allow the engine to achieve. You can get a new
spring if one is old and stretched, or replace it with a
color code that is stiffer with more RPM.
Governor Spring Arm: The governor spring on most motors
is connected to the governor arm or throttle arm. There
is normally more than one hole to connect the governor
spring. When we can't get an engine to the desired RPM,
we move the spring out further on the arm to another
hole, thus providing more leverage.
With this knowledge you can adjust your governor for the
performance your manufacture intended.
Governor and in-water performance. The governor when
properly adjusted has nothing to do with how fast the
motor runs in the water. However, there are exceptions
and a simple test, provided the engine under load is
running less than 3900. (But, first be safe, be in open
water, have full control of your motor and be familiar
where the carburetor throttle linkage is located.) (This
test is not subject to motor type, boat type, load,
elevation, or any other conditions.) With the throttle
wide open, and RPMs running lower than 3900 RPM, reach
around and press the carburetor butterfly arm or
governor linkage and see if there is any additional
throttle left. Visually, you might be able to see the
throttle arm pegged out on its stop or not. If there is
throttle left, replace the governor spring and/or give
us a call for help.
When all this is done, then we fine tune the propellers
for a given load. We can talk about this later.
Hyper - The twist or squeeze throttle both adjust the
same as above, except most of the Hyper motors run at
4000 RPM by design.
Tip: While you are adjusting the throttle cable in step
one, add a fingertip of grease to the cable near the
cable sleeve, and tie the cable up on any part of the
motor so it is higher than cable end. This will keep
water out of your throttle cable and prevent freezing